Thursday, August 30, 2012

Gina's Post: Another Week in the Life



Yet ANOTHER Week in the Life

 Every three months or so, I like to journal what I do every day for about a week so folks can get a glimpse of rural life in Zambia.  There is not really a typical “day” as each day presents its’ own rewards and challenges.  The last time I intensively wrote in my journal was from the last week in June to the first week in July.  Enjoy!

Thursday June 28th: Cooking Day
-       I woke naturally with the sun and chickens around 6:30 am.  It’s been nice to not have to use an alarm clock since being posted at our site.  Did the morning chores including watering the garden with our wastewater and fed the chickens.  I drank some green tea from a thermos, which was still warm from last night, and prepared for a big cooking demonstration day at the clinic. 
-       Another volunteer Kelly stayed the night to help with a refresher course I’ve been putting on all week for 6 community health workers and 11 members of the Safe Motherhood Activities (SMAG) group.  Topics covered so far have been: reasons pregnant women should have a clinic delivery, why fathers should accompany their pregnant partners to the clinic, HIV transmission, family planning, and malaria prevention 
-       Scott helped her fix her flat bike tire in preparation for the 2+ hour bike ride back to her village later this afternoon.
-       Scott went to a mud brick church down the road to finish teaching a 2-day workshop for fish farmers sponsored by a local NGO.  He had spent all last evening cutting out paper fish used for an educational hands-on activity as most of the villagers he taught read and write very little.
-        I arrived at the clinic around 8:30 and Kelly arrived shortly after with her newly-fixed bike.  Since all the SMAG’s and CHW’s were actually sleeping on foam mattresses in the clinic for the week (some came walking from faraway villages), breakfast was served.  It came a little late but was tasty: tea with creamer and sugar, boiled sweet potatoes, and roasted peanuts.
-       The workshop started at 9:30 (only half an hour late), and the participants gave a very good re-cap in Lunda of yesterday’s session.  They divided themselves into 3 groups to practice teaching expectant mom’s coming to today’s antenatal sessions about HIV, malaria prevention, and family planning techniques.
-       During this groupwork, one of the course participants who had a stomachache was lying on a reed mat on some grass outside the clinic porch (Lundas like lying in the sun if they feel sick).  She was not bothering anyone, but I went to go get the clinic worker in the next building over to see if she could get some pain killers and oral rehydration solution. 
-       Upon coming back, I saw almost the entire group of 16 participants surrounding the sick one and saying that she was possessed.  Upon seeing that she had an audience, the woman started convulsing and speaking in tongues.  Many started praying and saying that they needed to carry her to the church to get rid of her evil spirits (granted we WERE in a clinic).  Even the in-charge agreed that there was nothing he could do and maybe it would be better for her to go to the church. 
-       Kelly and I patiently waited in the makeshift hospital-room-turned-clinic since almost all the class participants were outside trying to calm the poor woman of her nervous fit.  Finally the in-charge (not a nurse mind you) gave her a shot of some type of tranquilizer and the woman drifted into a deep sleep. 
-       It was like herding goats to get all the CHW’s and SMAG group back into the classroom to talk about this afternoon’s child nutrition session and cooking demos.  We started with drawing pictures of the difference between extremely malnourished and stunted children.
-       Lunch for everyone consisted of nshima, soya pieces, and boiled beef leftover from last night.  During lunch, I received a message on my phone that the guest speaker who was supposed to come from Mwinilunga tomorrow to teach about water and sanitation was not going to make it.  This is definitely not the first time that BOMA officials have cancelled on me!  I guess I’ll just teach all of the content.
-       We had one more short classroom session after the men came back from bathing in the river, and we reviewed ways to enhance children’s porridges to give them more nutrition.  The health workers sorted food into three different baskets: “go, grow, and glow” for carbs, proteins, and fruits/vegetables and talked about foods that make you do each of the above.
-       Then for the fun part!  The groups divided up into 5 co-ed groups, which was fun to see since traditionally Zambian men don’t cook.  They each made a different children’s food: pumpkin porridge, sweet potato porridge, eggs with veggies, soya patties, and pounded peanut and dried fish porridge. 
-       Each group was very proud of what they made and village toddlers (many of whom were malnourished) came from across the road to test.  They liked them very much!  The health workers were encouraged to give them small amounts and to eat slowly.  Even the older kids wanted to eat some, but unfortunately we didn’t have enough and we had to re-enforce that the younger children had priority with the food, which was good role-modeling for the mothers of the malnourished toddlers.
-       As the sun went down, the adults finally got to try their own creations for dinner, and there were mixed reviews, but most of them liked the dishes.
-       I rode my bike 4k home under the half moon, which was bright enough to light up the road as I saw warming fires from the various family compounds. 
-       I got home, took a quick foot bath, re-capped with Scott on his day’s events at the fish farming training, and tried checking my phone messages only to hear that the network was well.  Oh well . . . more time for sleep!

Friday June 29th: Toilet Inspections
-       This was day 5 of a 6-day course, so there was no time to do many morning chores except wash my sandals, which really needed it!  I did have the lovely experience to waking up to a dead bird and big pile of feathers under the bed that the cat brought in, but no time to even clean it.  I threw the bird outside but to no avail as the cat brought it right back in as a play toy.  Sigh!
-       Scott spent the day getting wall lime from a Peace Corps neighbor’s house, visiting me at the clinic, gardening, and making yummy pumpkin curry.
-       I biked to the clinic with full-fingered gloves and a coat in the early morning chill and brought baking soda and a spatula to make pancakes for the health workers camping at the clinic for their training.  One of my male counterparts enjoyed flipping the pancakes, which was fun to see, and everyone enjoyed eating them.  Anything containing flour and oil in the bush is a true treat.
-       The workshop actually started close to time (9:00) and I had each cooking group re-cap what they made and if it had all 3 food groups.  They said that all the recipes could be used with small children, except for the eggs, since eggs are too expensive and traditionally eaten by adult men only. 
-       The Safe Motherhood group finished up their four days, and they each got mosquito nets and the names of 2-5 pregnant women in their area to distribute directly to the houses of these women while providing health education on malaria prevention. 
-       We were left with the six community health workers, who were able to practice giving a health talk at the clinic where over 100 children under 5 years came to get weighed.  Even though all day’s session was supposed to be about water and sanitation, I couldn’t pass up the practical learning experience.  Everyone helped with both the weighing and tallying of kiddos at two different weighing stations.
-       Unlike a typical scale day where they just weigh the kids like produce and then just send them home without telling the parents if they are underweight, we practiced assessing the growth charts do determine which children actually needed special assistance and helped the health workers formulate how to explain better nutritional practices to the parents.
-       Scott biked to the clinic to join the group for lunch, which consisted of nshima, dried fish, and a tomato-onion sauce.
-       In the afternoon, we went over a list of expectations for all of the health workers to receive a refresher course certificate.  They will have to do different types of health promotion tasks in their villages, and we will have a follow-up course and give out the certificates in November if they have completed the tasks.
-       We then took a little field trip to some different compounds surrounding the clinic to assess various pit latrines.  The first place we stopped was a nearby family whose latrine was completely full (and uncovered at that), so everyone was using the bush, which was dangerously close to the nearby river.  We assessed what would be a good spot to build a new toilet and educated the family on the importance of disease prevention for the entire community.
-       The second compound was strikingly different and a model for sanitation; both male and female chimbushis, both made out of strong bricks and covered with good roofs to prevent erosion in the rainy season.  The toilet holes had covers and were swept daily with ashes to disinfect.  This gave the health workers a good comparison so they could come back to the classroom activity of writing up a checklist of things to look for in a village toilet.
-       For dinner the group had nshima and chicken, which we had just seen squawking moments earlier.   I bypassed this dinner to come home to Scott’s cooking of pumpkin curry just before dark.  As I was arriving our house, there was also a visitor I had never met asking for money for his HIV group.  Most of the villagers know by now that we just don’t hand out money . . . but there are those occasional few!
-       Although I should have been planning for tomorrow’s lesson at the clinic, I was tired and read a few chapters of my book before retiring straight to bed.

Saturday June 30th: First Do No Harm
-       Today is the last day of the refresher course! Although I enjoy teaching at the clinic a lot, I’m ready to be done with 10+ hour days at the clinic that include teaching as well as managing meals and logistics for health workers from remote villages camping out at the clinic.
-       Yesterday the health workers prioritized that they wanted a refresher on basic diseases, so I woke up with the roosters (no alarm clock these days) to look up infectious diseases and make a little matching game. 
-       I was a little jealous because Scott went to the agricultural show in the BOMA that was happening Friday and Saturday only.  I wanted to see it to compare it to the Yakima fair, but alas, it will have to be next year. 
-       I again cycled to the clinic in the morning chill and found that breakfast of sweet potatoes and roasted peanuts were still cooking over the fire.  I prepped for the last day only to find that the markers we use to write on butcher paper on the wall were all finished, so I went back home to get more markers knowing the course would definitely start later than 9am today . . . and so it goes in Africa!
-       I came back and breakfast was ready.  We prayed, ate, and prayed again before the course began.  We re-capped the toilet session and problem-solved how the health workers could address issues of full toilets/no toilets on family compounds in their communities and ended the discussion with six toilet experts!
-       The next topic was weighing children, since many of the health workers are very good at the actual weighing, but many have a hard time looking at the charts to determine if a child is actually underweight or not.  We practiced plotting lines on growth charts and assessing the curve to see if it was going up or down.  It was fun to finally see them “get it” to see if a child is actually underweight for his/her age or not. 
-       Lunch consisted of soya pieces and of course nshima.  Mmmm .  .  . not that I don’t like nshima, but it’ll be nice to have a break when the course is over.
-       The last lesson was called “first do no harm” as these community health volunteers have pain killers, malaria medications, cough syrup, antibiotics and a myriad of other drugs (thanks to generous foreign aid donations) at their disposal.  Unfortunately, their 6-week training six years ago was hardly a substitute for a solid pharmacology background.  Most of these health workers end up working in the clinic quite often since we have had no nurse much less doctor there for over a year.  They often pass out medications at patient’s request, thinking they are doing a good thing by making the patients feel better.
-       This session re-iterated that health workers’ main job was disease prevention, and then went over the side effects of each of the above classes of drugs mentioned above.  We also discussed the concept of drug resistance, which they had never been taught about, and the importance of having a patient finish an entire course of antiobiotics or malaria medications.
-       Many of the health workers had an “ah-ha” moment, realizing for the first time the dangers of side effects of some of these drugs they had been passing out like candy.  Some even admitted, “we’ve been giving too many medications.”  Even though it was only a short session, it piqued their interest enough that they want to learn more about medications from a trained nurse when we re-unite in November.
-       The very last activity was the disease matching game and let me tell you I was surprised by these health workers knowledge of diseases such as measles, lice, and syphilis.   They knew more than I thought!
-       The health workers helped clean up after the week-long course, which involved carrying by hand the church pews we borrowed from the Catholic Church ½ a kilometer up the road.  They got their mosquito nets for distribution, and we ate a last meal of nshima and kapenta (dried sardines) together.
-       I rode home exhausted as the sun was going down and the full moon was coming up.  It was slow-going since I had a small leak in my front tire and brakes rubbing in the back which I hadn’t had time to maintain all week.  But I did have a good sense of accomplishment for a week completed. 
-       I came home to find Scott roasting big marinated hunks of fresh pork over the brazier, which he had bought at the agricultural show.  He liked the show, but said that most of the fresh produce was for display only and not to buy. 

Sunday July 1st: Water Day
-       I slept in until 7am, which is a near record for the village considering the sound of roosters and people working that usually wakes me up.
-       I helped Scott fill our large drum of water with our neighbors, which is a 3-4 person affair involving 1-2 people at the well raising buckets of water on a rope and 1-2 people biking and dumping the buckets into our drum.  I took advantage of the bounty of water to soak the garden. 
-       I had every intention of going to church, but because there was so much to do after being gone for 6 days, I decided to stay home for some laundry and cleaning.  We ate a simple breakfast of sorghum porridge and canned guavas, and I started scrubbing away at our clothes by hand as a local high school student put dried grass on an extension of our outdoor kitchen right above me.  We blasted music on our mini AAA battery speaker and the Zambians loved it.  A few neighbors came over just to hear the music. 
-       Crispin helped Scott dig a foundation for our new bathouse/bikehouse.  Although the villagers make these mud structures all the time, they got a kick out of a chindelli (white person) doing it.  They especially liked seeing him use the level. 
-       I did some gardening/weed pulling and picked some tomatoes, basil, and lettuce from our yard.  This was my first fresh salad from our garden in about two weeks.  Also some bike maintenance including jerryrigging the back brake until I have time to replace it. 
-       I rushed to the clinic, thinking I was late with a follow-up meeting with the clinic in-charge and two of the course participants.  The in-charge said he didn’t want to meet because he was tired and only one of the participants.  Had I known, I would have finished fixing my brakes.  So is life. 
-       I got home to make dinner of boiled sweet potatoes, some the size of a small football (took an hour to cook), and granola with fresh local honey.   Scott made collard greens and cooked up the pork he had been marinating all day VERY throuroughly as there’s no fridge around here.
-       Evening consisted of tea, journal, and bed by 8!

Monday July 2nd: A Baby Named Scott
-       Today is some Zambian national holiday that I don’t remember the name of because these holidays really mean nothing to the village workers.  They still go to their fields, pound cassava and build bricks like they would any other day.
-       I went to get drinking water at a spring about 1 kilometer away. Usually there are kids or women around, but this time I got to enjoy the tranquility of the hills and trees by myself before lugging 10 and 20L jugs back up a hill to my biked parked at the top. 
-       Chores today included a deep clean of the bedroom floor, including removing termite trails, the beginnings of ant hills and the remnants of Hop’s scuttle with the bird a few days back as well as starting sweet potato bread.
-       I went to the clinic to make the re-scheduled clinic and the in-charge said he was going home for lunch and gave me the keys to the clinic.  I started counting money leftover from the refresher course (originally provided by the district health office) because we had to account for every single kwacha spent and writing a repot for the district. 
-       We did have some leftover money, and when the in-charge and a course participant finally returned, I asked what they thought we should do with it and they automatically said “bicycles for the clinic volunteers.”  We debated this as the clinic had two bicycles for this very purpose just a year ago, and they mysteriously disappeared.  Better to get something more practical like benches and shelves so patient charts didn’t have to sit on stacks on the floor.
-       We moved all the mosquito nets to the locked pharmacy room to make sure that only community health volunteers had access to them to distribute to pregnant women. 
-       I went to the labor room building, and saw the latest delivery—a male.  I asked what his name was and the mother said that I should name him (this has happened on at least 3 other ideas, so if anyone has any name suggestions . . . ).  Before I could even open my mouth, the traditional birth attendant piped in, “Scott.”  The mother and father both approved, so the name stuck. 
-       I rode back home and worked on the bread, which turned out more like flatbread.  Scott cooked up some leafy green veggies and we had some pitas.  The full moon rose and the night was eerily quiet for a full moon . . . no sounds of children playing and no neighbors huddled around their warming fires. 
-       Scott started burning our trash, and by 8pm we heard what sounded like a procession of people singing and then yelling.  We didn’t know what it was but thought it might either be a funeral procession, a witchcraft trial, or some type of church event.  We had a treat of dark chocolate and dried cherries sent from the States . . . yum!

Another Week in the Life!

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Picture Time!

Hello friends and family-

We finally got some pictures up of the last few months.  A few blog posts to follow as we prepare for a busy two months of three sets of visitors from America.


https://picasaweb.google.com/ginaord/August282012?authkey=Gv1sRgCNegzf3j4KmZnwE&feat=email

Enjoy!

Friday, August 10, 2012

Village Logic (Scott's)

Before I insult anybody, I want to say that many of the Zambians are ingenious when it comes to fixing and building things using materials from the bush.  Whether it is wire grills for roasting their bush meat, rat traps made of spare wire and wood, chicken coops, or bicycles, if it is broken or needs to be built, they can find a way to do it, sometimes elegantly and others just functionally.  But getting to that point where they see a need and a pathway to fix or build things can sometimes be slow, depending on the topic, especially less tangible things.  A few cases in point:

I had a program scheduled at the local school to help teach the students some of the football (soccer) drills that were learned at a youth workshop back in April.  I had a meeting with the teachers involved and we discussed using the soccer balls that the school had for the program, which were presently deflated and in a box in a teacher's office.  On the day of the program the balls were still in the box.  This was not unexpected.  Many programs are considered secondary to the status quo and are not taken completely seriously until the time is at hand and they realize that it is truly coming together.  So I loaned them my bicycle pump to inflate the balls, at first without a inflation needle, then with a bit of searching in the community, with one.  The teacher tried but was unsuccessful.  A student, who witnessed the teacher try to inflate them, tried the very same thing, unsuccessfully.  Another student who hadn't witnessed the attempt came along and was told what the previous teacher and student had tried but the new student promptly asked for the pump, needle, and ball and proceeded to try the SAME thing that the other 2 tried, unsuccessfully, of course.  The teacher decided it was the pump.  It was clearly not a problem with the pump because you could feel air coming out of the needle with each stroke of the pump.  But we sat and waited for another pump to be produced.  After about 15 minutes we had another pump and after another 15 minutes the same procedure of trying to pump up the balls unsuccessfully, and among 3 different people, unfolded again.  So, back to using my pump since it could pump over twice as fast as the other one they found, and back to having other passers-by, including a teacher, try unsuccessfully to pump up the ball in the same manner as the previous attempts.  Finally, after no less than 8 different attempts, the original teacher admitted that the program was not going to happen that day and that they would work on getting the balls fixed properly.

Our local clinic presently has a shelter where the family attendees of the patients have a place to cook for their family members who are being treated at the hospital, usually pregnant mothers.  The roof is leaking and there are only 3 walls to the structure at present, making it uncomfortable in the rainy season, and sometimes over maximum capacity of cooks.  At a meeting to discuss how to design a new shelter , I asked the villagers if there would be any windows in the structure.  I was thinking of letting light in, but the villagers went into a discussion about managing the smoke from the fires inside the shelter.  Some key points were that firewood is typically used by the villagers, which is a much smokier fire, and charcoal is not so smoky, but is expensive and sometimes difficult to find in the rainy season. We let the villagers sort it out and the spokesman proceeded to explain that, since charcoal didn't produce a lot of smoke, but was expensive and couldn't be afforded all year, the new shelter would only be used in the dry season so that the smoke would not be a problem, and the existing shelter would be used in the rainy season with fire wood since it is more open and the smoke isn't a problem since it is so open.  "But, don't you want a new shelter because the existing shelter leaks in the rainy season?" I asked.  They thought about that and discussed in Lunda for a little longer, seemingly gridlocked on how to manage the smoke, apparently wanting to avoid installing any windows because they were too expensive.  The existing clinic is a nicely built structure with iron framed glass windows and a roof that sits on top with no gaps between the metal roofing sheets and brick walls.  But there are air vents high in the wall to allow ventilation.  The funny thing is that most Zambians live in huts where there are huge gaps between the top of the wall and grass roofs, and these provide great ventilation and helps keep the huts cool in the heat and warm in the cold.  But when it comes to the typical clinic, school, or government office the status quo seems to be to build a structure with glass windows for ventilation, or at least the air vents.  It was as if building a companion structure to the clinic had to built by the same standards, and simply making some open holes in the bricks for ventilation was unthinkable.  We settled on trying to put a few of those open spaces in the brick high up on the wall near the gable for smoke ventilation so that this structure the community was building, which was a lot of manual labor and some financial investment for them, could be used all year.

At a fish farmer meeting that I organized I realized that we were not going to have time to cover all the topics I had planned.  I asked the attendees to vote on 1 of 2 topics so that we could cover the topic that the majority of the people wanted to learn about in the last hour of the meeting, and schedule another meeting another day to talk about the less popular topic.  I asked if everyone understood and if there were any questions.  People raised their hand and as I was prepared to explain this voting process, I found myself listening to an attendee my a case for why a certain topic should be chosen over the other.  I tried to explain to him that we do not have time for everyone to give their individual opinion, so we would vote by a count of hands.  Another person apparently had a question and when called upon they too proceeded to give their opinion on which topic they preferred.  After four of these soap box presentations I put an end to any more questions and we finally started the vote.  This whole process lasted about 15 minutes so before when we had an hour left to talk about a topic it now was down to 45 minutes.  Village Zambians are just not comfortable with the voting process.  When they have their meetings they want to express themselves in their own words, even if the jist of those words have already been spoken by another. 

In a newspaper employment ad for security guards, the final line of the ad, not in fine print, says "Must be 30 to 40 years old".  An employment ad for a midwife says "Must not be over 40 years of age".  So much for EEO in Zambia.  And I guess I won't be trying to find a job in Zambia when I'm done my assignment!

Thursday, August 9, 2012

A Village Wedding (Scott's)


For several months one of my counterparts, Ryford, would remind me every few weeks that he was having a wedding in June and wanted Gina and I to be there.  This usually lead to a brief conversation about the wedding preparations from the man's perspective.  He talked about how he needed to buy several goats and lots of chickens as a dowry of sorts to give to the bride's family.  I asked if he get's gifts from other people.  He said no.  He also talked about how he needed to pay the bride's family several times on the wedding day.  Once to get the bride to leave her village (about 3 kilometer's away), once for her to enter his village, once for her to come to his family's compound, again for her to come into his hut, and again for, well, you know.  He also talked about why he was marrying her.  Nothing about "love" was mentioned.  Instead there was talk of how his mother's health was failing and his family needed help with everything that his mother did.  Shortly after that I met Miriam, the future bride.  She was beautiful.  She dressed in nice clothes, and had a stunning smile.  I wonder if Ryford purposely neglected to mention this, or if helping his family was really the only reason he wanted to marry her.

On the night before the wedding, I heard many women singing and yelling at about 9 pm at night.  Unfortunately Gina had a program out of our village, or else I think she would have been invited to come join them.  The women of our village got together to go to the village where Ryford's bride lived to help her prepare for coming to his home.  About an hour later the singing and yelling could be heard again nearing our village as the women escorted the bride.  The noise would lower to a chatter occasionally and then be punctuated with a loud cheer and vocal hysterics, similar to what you might expect at a sporting event.  I witnessed this with my ears only, as I was not invited and wasn't sure of the protocol for a man's involvement in this scene.  But I could imagine Ryford kneeling and clapping in respect for the bride's family like any good Lunda as he paid at the appropriate intervals for the right to take his new wife. 

The next day was the wedding celebration for everyone.  Ryford's family does not drink, so it essentially boiled down to sitting around, chatting, waiting for the food, and listening to music, with a little bit of dancing by some of Ryford's friends, all men.  At one point there was one radio playing traditional Lunda music on the radio while just 30 ft away a younger crowd played Zambian pop music, accompanied by the dancing.  Here the men dance in a cluster, not necessarily with each other, but definitely not with the women, few of which were around, much less dancing.  Ryford and Miriam were not present for most of this.  They were being taught how to treat each other by a matron, an older village woman respected for being able to explain to newly-weds how to behave.  This went on for about 4 hours and then lunch was served.  Ryford, his brother Ryvus, and a couple of other friends, including me, collected in Ryford's 2.5 square meter house to have a lunch of chicken, beans, rape, and cassava nshima.  There was little room for anything but sitting and eating as half the room was filled with a bed, upon which Miriam and Ryford had recently consummated their marriage.  It was odd, to say the least.  But it seemed to be completely normal, and honor even, for these young men to be together in Ryford's hut.  After we ate, Ryford made sure that the leftover bones of the chicken we had for lunch (of which there were few because Lunda's eat most of the bones) were put back into the pot.  Then the young men in the room added money to the pot.  Apparently this another payment for the wedding.  Miriam came in to join the guys, saying little but smiling shyly.  The matron came in to collect the pot and was not shy about looking in the pot to check to see if there was enough money.  The matron spoke some final words to Ryford and Miriam about how to treat each other, and left these two young Zambians, marrying for utility, to make things work as best they could.  The final payment for Miriam was on the following day when Ryford had to give Miriam's family chickens in order for her to be able to collect her personal belongings and bring them back to Ryford's home.  Ryford's hut was already packed, so I wish them luck to find out where to put Miriam's stuff.

Run Over By a Chicken (Scott's)

Frequently I see chickens on the side of the road as I bicycle between my village and anywhere else within 20 km.  I've had several near misses but they usually end with the chicken escaping harm in a flurry of chicken feathers and squaks. I often envisioned what would happen if I did actually hit a chicken.  In my imagination I feel a subtle bump in the road and see me eating chicken for dinner.  This past Monday I got to experience it for real.

Gina and I were riding our bicycle back from our Boma to our village on Monday.  As usual, I took advantage of one of the several hills to avoid pedaling and enjoy the speed on the way back.  Near the bottom of the hill, when I was near my fastest speed, a chicken trying to cross the road (insert joke reference here) ran into my front wheel and caused me to fall over, land on my left knee and elbow, and slide about 3 meters.  When I first saw that chicken I was sure it would do what all the other chickens had previously done along the side of the road.  But this one was persistent in its search for the other side of the road.  I screamed in surprise more than pain when I landed on the ground, then yelled in pain as the road rash on my elbow and knee started telling me they were there.  The villagers were startled to hear someone yell like I did, but they were largely yells of frustration, though I won't deny the pain.  I tried to walk off the pain for a moment but realized I should just rest for a moment and survey the damage.  A villager or two immediately wanted to help me get up or try to clean my would with a piece of grass, but Gina shooed them away and started supplying me with alcohol wipes and bandaids to cover the wounds.  After realizing riding a bike was too much for my swelling knee I hitched in the back of a pick-up to get home.  The first thing my host family father did when he saw it was touch it, to find out whether a white person bled real blood or to assess the swelling, I don't know, but I had to shoo him away too.

At the request of the Peace Corps medical officer I went to Solwezi two days later to get an X-ray and general check up too make sure my assessment of "It's fine, just needs some rest" was accurate.  I went into St. John's clinic in Solwezi, the northwest province capital, about a 4.5 hour drive from my village.  After getting some standard diagnostics and a quick visit with a woman doctor (a nice surprise in a society where women's equality in the rural Zambian villages is probably equivalent to 1920's United States) I went into the X-ray room to verify her "it's fine, you just need to rest" diagnosis.  I saw an X-ray machine probably as old as I was pointing down onto a well-laquered wooden table.  As I sat with my legs stretched out on the table, with no lead-coat protection, I got two pictures of my leg.  After a moment the radiologist (also a woman) came out and said that she only sees soft tissue in the X-ray so she would have to do it again.  Two more X-rays, and a couple more minutes, and she comes out of her dark room to say that she has the opposite problem now, and I saw an X-ray that was all black.  She made a comment about how it appeared that I was very slim but must have dense tissues.  She said it as if it was meant as a compliment.  So before she set me up for another couple of shots she pulled out a lead coat for me to wear.  Apparently in Zambia they guess that 4 X-rays in a day is okay, but 5 requires some safety precautions.  So another couple of shots and this time one can see my bones in the X-ray.  The doctor checked it out and confirmed that there was no fractures of any kind.  When I told them I would need a copy for the Peace Corps doctor in Lusaka, I was told I would have to go back to get another X-ray set since they do not have any way to make duplicates of X-rays.  With a feeling more of amusement than impatience, I got on the table again to be zapped 2 more times (with lead coat protection).  I've learned in Zambia this is a much better way to deal with these kind of situations, but I do wonder what a radiologist at John's Hopkins would think of those 4 X-rays without lead-coat protection.  So now I'm relaxing at the Peace Corps house in Solwezi with Ibuprofen, ice, and elevation until I can bend my knee enough to get into a squat position without too much pain.  Squatting is a prerequisite for living in a Zambian rural village...